Turn the canister over and looks for liquid fuel leaking out. I had been monitoring my codes and somehow must have cleared them before I took the vehicle to the dealership. The fuel rail pressure sensor code could either be caused by the vacuum leak or by a failing fuel regulator. Just wanted to say thanks to ssilence for the information in this thread. It came to me because the check engine light is on. At the dealership I explained the issue we were having and left it with them.
Renewing my elite membership immediately. Decided I am going to try new intake gaskets. They should be actively switching, not biased. What does the code mean? Sorry I forgot to mention that. Dead easy to replace by the way. I went through the arcives and could find either the two codes for always rich or the two codes for always lean,but not all four together. Thermistor-type sensors are considered passive sensor.
Would I get a rich code if it was a timing issue but zero timing codes? No hole in the diaphragm. Before I went back to pick the item up I did a little more research and ran across a blog can't remember where I saw it at where someone else with a different vehicle stated they had a similiar issue. The rebuilt computer eliminated all my problems. Truck had 36800 miles on it It's coded 3-4 times now. Had 02 sensors replaced, no change, still codes.
The heated oxygen sensor 1 has a closed-end tube made of ceramic zirconia. It would happen after filling up. So you should chech it on our car models. Let me know what you find out. Past this you have to take them to a place that can clean and pattern fuel injectors. I would first check for holes in the rubber hoses especially where there are right angle rubber hose connectors.
It's interesting that you had misfire codes for cylinders 1, 2, and 3 and now a code for a B1 O2 sensor that is stuck high. Swapped injectors a week ago from one bank to the next to see if the problem follows the injectors. Do they really need to save room by making 3s plug accessible by only an inch or two? Sorry for being non-responsive everyone, the holidays kept me pretty busy. Possible intake vacuum leak, but plenty other possible causes. Found a great link for that at: If all those fail I've been reading about a possible shot cat conv.
The zirconia generates voltage from approximately 1V in richer conditions to 0V in leaner conditions. This forces fuel into the canister and eventually to the valve causing it to fail. I'm thinking maybe start with the plug but was just seeing if any of the wise sages here had any other suggestions before i spend the day on that ridiculous number 4 plug. This causes the ignition coil to provide a spark and the injector to inject fuel into each cylinder at the right time. Must have mentioned that on one of the other sites and forgot to here as well. The zirconia generates voltage from approximately 1V in richer conditions to 0V in leaner conditions. The vehicle also stalls hard right after a fill up.
The outer surface of the sensor element is exposed to exhaust gas. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. In the interim, time to change the oil as it reeked of gas. Thinking about taking it to the dealership to have it checked out. One thing I did notice was more oil on the ring gasket for intake port 2 and actually a ring of oil left behind on the head. A lot less money than I had spent on parts chasing the problem and much less than new injectors. The solution is here : Ford F-250 P2198 Possible Solution : The crankshaft sensor signals the fuel injection computer or the ignition control when the cylinders are firing.
P2196 Ford Description The front heated oxygen sensor or O2 sensor 1 is placed into the exhaust manifold. I pulled the intake manifold thinking I needed to to get the timing cover off and re used the gaskets as they looked perfectly fine. In addition, I found a recall for earlier makes of the Ford Edge that had this same part failing. In later car models, the car's computer can usually keep the vehicle running, but the engine warning light on the dashboard goes on to warn the driver. Miss my old 68 stang where you could climb inside the compartment to work on it. Just posting for future posterity. When your car's 'Ford F-250 P2198 Check Engine' light comes on, it's usually accompanied by a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach.
Any ideas or help with this I would appreciate it. Have you tried running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner or some other fuel system cleaner through the system for a hundred miles or so? The old one was stuck open, which sucks in vapors continuously, and biases the mixture rich. The sensor detects oxygen levels in the exhaust gas and sends this signal to the. Now I'm getting a 2196 code!!!!! Look for soft squishy or oily spots on the hoses. Its the old ride the gas and brake to keep from stalling. Below is a link to the part.
Perhaps check the air filter. Any help is greatly appreciated!. Monitor the Engine Oil Temperature in live data 3. If no marked results, then O2 sensor response and fuel pressure tests may be in order. You don't mention that the engine is rough currently, only that you have the code.