Step 2: Locate the glow plugs in your engine. With 2002, a four wire monitoring system was used. Remove the caps or connectors to the glow plugs. Checked resistance of each glow plug between the hex' and the tip which connects to the plug - all reading 0. For example, if your plug's resistance measured. Consult the shop manual of your vehicle to find the location of the glow plugs in the engine.
However when I extracted the old relay I saw that the number of pins and their layout was different from the new one. So I have a couple of questions: 1. Thanks to both of you gentlemen for your contributions to the blog! This can be easily detected when you test for signals at the socket. At this point, the cam and valve tappets must be replaced. When you look up the part number, please post it for the next guy or gal in need of a harness.
After removing the maff tubing I could see there was a holding clip at the back edge so I managed to insert a small screwdriver into the slot and gently pulled the wires and out came the connector. On the cover of the case of the relay is the wiring circuit usually. I feel confident the plugs themselves are in good working order. Place the negative lead of your multimeter onto the negative terminal of the battery, and the positive lead onto the positive terminal. I need a picture of the relay panel to re-insert these relays. Glow plugs preheat the air in the combustion chamber in diesel engines so that they start faster when they are cold.
If I pull them I'm going to replace them, it has 310k miles on it. I may end up cutting some length out and soldering the wires back together with some heat shrink to remedy the problem. The ones I found by googling don't seem to be the same. Then briefly touch the top of the Glowplug with the power cable of the Plus charge. The bullet connectors were just a bit loose on the plugs, but I solved that by squeezing them ever so slightly with a crimper.
Is there 12V on the wire jumper? Digital multimeters have a difficult time measuring current that is constantly changing. It came in at exactly 4mm and my recent multicopter work got me thinking about 4mm female bullet connectors. Turns out it was a fuel pipe that had come loose to the fuel filter and at points was sucking in enough air to conk out. Temp sensor are often linked into the fueling and cold start equipment like glow plugs and excess fuel for cold starting. For the older ones, it has to be spliced and soldered in pairs following the firing order, so that the cylinders that are up will always get heat at the proper timing. I also have a schematic if I need it.
I have to do a glow plug on my 1999. The noise disappears when I remove this relay 337. The injectors were actuated by 4 extra lobes on the single camshaft and the rest of the lobes were thinned down to make space for the extra 4 lobes. I go by the small resistance value and it has never fail me. I do have a 2nd socket but have not had time to make a 2nd tester with it.
Any suggestions on further testing? I found the Powerstroke harness to be long enough for my application. The tool also cleans the threads that the glow plug screws into. Plugs don't seem to be working the last two mornings. There is usually a cover or cap over the glow plugs. No, then wire break between the glow plug bus and the firewall fuse. Also, it looks like they are 4 wire harnesses.
When my old Diesel Polo did something like this I spent ages cleaning and checking all the earth connections. I think that in my case, it's probably best to replace all the plugs. Engine grounding completes the circuit for these plugs. Recently I went back in and trimmed the bottoms from all four plastic plugs, exposing the connectors. There is a large dial in the center of the multimeter where you can adjust the settings. Most glow plugs are installed in the cylinder heads and will have a heavy gauge wire, similar to a regular spark plug wire, attached to them. There is usually a cover or cap over the glow plugs.
To learn how to test glow plugs when they're outside of the engine, scroll down! These leads usually have metal clamps at the end of them. Once the negative lead is secure, attach the positive lead to the top of the glow plug. It could also be the harness - although I don't believe a harness problem would cause all four plugs to show bad. If it does, I can go full turn with the key and start it. Martin Follow up to my last post.